20th October 2016, the day 3 of our EBC trek, at 6’o clock in the morning there was no significant improvement on Prakash’s health as he was still suffering from fever, headache and nausea. It was not possible to take him further on the trek, so we decided for his return to Kathmandu. Prakash did not agree with our decision at first, quite understandable, but had to begin his return journey with our guide. Kamal and I, with porters and assistant guide head straight out to our onward journey. We walked on the same path as yesterday, left behind the village Benkar, crossed over the same suspension bridge and hiked to the village Chhumuwa where our TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management Systems) permits were checked in the check post. You actually require two permits for trekking to Everest Base Camp, TIMS permit and Sagarmatha National Park Permit. Our TIMS permits were arranged in advance by the trek operator, ‘Advance Adventure’.
It was 9.30am when we resumed our trek from TIMS check post. After a few minutes of easy walk we passed the village Monjo. We didn’t stop here, went ahead on the trail and at 10 am arrived at the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Gate in Jorsalle. We bought the Park permits here and stepped inside the Sagarmatha National Park. Spinning the prayer wheel and admiring the inscription on the roadside stones we followed the trail that went straight down to a long suspension bridge. Crossing this bridge, we arrived into the village Jorsalle which is the last place for any refreshments and packaged drinking water before Namche Bazaar. It was then only 10 minutes to 11 am and we had to opt if we would take lunch here. We decided for a cup of tea and a bowl of Thukpa, the best dish in the mountains!
We resumed our journey at 11.15 am and walked on some ups and downs trail. It was then a steep hike before leveling out at the Dudhkoshi river side where from the Edmund Hillary Suspension Bridge was clearly visible. It was a moment for excitement! There are two bridges, the lower one is now abandoned and the higher suspension bridge provides access to the trek to Namche Bazaar.
The trek got surprisingly difficult after crossing the bridge. The first mantra to hike steep climb was taught to me here, “slowly slowly, bistari bistari (steady)”! It would take us another 2 hours to Namche Bazaar from here. Religiously I obeyed the mantra and slowly, slowly reached the Topdanda top at 1 pm. This is a place where from you can get the first view of Mt Everest if weather God is pleased. The luck was in our favour and we had a nice clear view of Mt Everest.
After a much deserving stop for photo shoot at Topdanda top we resumed our trek to Namche. It was then only a half-an-hour walk to the police entry check post of Namche Bazaar where our papers were checked and details recorded. Another 40 minutes of steep hike and we glided through the Namche Bazaar entry gate to arrive at this bustling town of Everest region at around 2 pm. Heading up the main street we went high and high to find our lodge Tashi Delek. It was a clean and comfortable place.
Evening was very cold here but I could not resist myself going outside at subzero degree temperature for capturing the beautiful night view of Namche Bazaar! Later in the evening we all assembled in the warm dining hall which had a burning stove in the centre. Dinner was served at 7pm and by 8pm we all were tucked up in bed – fully exhausted!
You can read the day to day account of my Everest Base Camp Trek here-
- An Enthralling Flight to Lukla, Nepal
- EBC Trek – Day 1 & 2 – Lukla – Phakding – Toktok
- EBC Trek – Day 4 – Namche Bazaar – Acclimatization Day (Part-I)
- EBC Trek – Day 4 – Namche Bazaar, Khumjung – Acclimatization Day (Part-II)