EBC Trek – Day 1 & 2 – Lukla – Phakding – Toktok

By    February 23rd 2017    11 Comments  Posted in Adventure, Asia, Everest Base Camp, Nepal, Trekking

Our expedition to the Everest Base Camp started from Lukla in the afternoon of 18th October 2016. Lukla is a small mountain village which situates at a modest elevation of 2850m. Most of the trekkers, like us, who arrived late here, were having their lunch and beer before the start of the trek. Perhaps everyone was gulping their last beer as consumption of alcohol at higher altitudes is believed to cause dehydration and triggers Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).

 A rescue helicopter flying from Lukla Airport to bring the sick trekkers from the high mountains.

A rescue helicopter flying from Lukla Airport to bring the sick trekkers from the high mountains.

During the season the Lukla Airport remains busy almost the entire day with frequent in and out flights and rescue helicopters. The streets of Lukla has variety of shops and one can have basic western style meals and pick up any last minute items for trekking ahead. After lunch we merrily began the trek at 12.45PM. At the beginning of the trail there is a memorial gate dedicated to Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepalese woman to climb the summit of Mount Everest.

The street of Lukla

The street of Lukla

Prakash and Kamal near the Memorial Gate at Lukla

Prakash and Kamal near the Memorial Gate at Lukla

The trail heads down from here for about 30 minutes before leveling at the village Ghat. Here we spun the prayer wheels clockwise walking left around, passed the mani stones and then went ahead on the trail. The path was now relatively flat and easy up to the most popular day one destination Phakding. We reached Phakding in 2 hours from Lukla where we stopped for some snacks and tea.

Prayer Wheel at the village Ghat

Prayer Wheel at the village Ghat

Inscription on stones on the trail

Inscription on stones on the trail

Inscriptions, Mani stones and Stupas of Ghat

Inscriptions, Mani stones and Stupas of Ghat

To walk pass the Stupa one should walk through the left side as per the custom.

To walk pass the Stupa one should walk through the left side as per the custom.

That's Phakding! On the right is the most popular Namaste Lodge.

That’s Phakding! On the right is the most popular Namaste Lodge.

We continued further to reach the village Monjo but after covering only about 3Kms one of our friends, Prakash, started shivering. He was not feeling well and hardly could walk further. We stopped near a lodge and decided to call off the day. The village was Toktok! Prakash had high fever with no apparent symptoms. In the mountains you don’t get doctors and in such a situation the first aid kit is your only help. His health did not improve much in the next morning and unexpectedly our trek came to a halt that too at such a modest elevation. What would you do when your partner fell sick and can’t walk further? We had two options. First, leave Prakash in the lodge with guide and Porter, get separated and continue with the walk. Second option, use buffer day and stay with him. We chose the later despite of the fact that we would have no more buffer days as per the itinerary.

Prakash was posing day before on a small suspension bridge after Phakding.

Prakash was posing day before on a small suspension bridge after Phakding.

On day two, while Prakash was resting in the lodge, Kamal and I went for a day hike to the village Benkar on a trail that was with little ups and downs, through the trees, over the tiny waterfalls and into the valleys. Today we got to see many Buddhist player wheels and mani stones and encountered our first big suspension bridge over the river Dudhkoshi. The sides of suspension bridge were coverd by prayer flags which boosted our confidence and we kept walking with his (Lord Buddha) blessings.We saw locals engaged in their daily lives and it was charming walking into the valleys. There, a boy was plucking pears and I caught one for a small cost.

Somewhere near the village Benkar

Somewhere near the village Benkar

The First big suspension bridge we encounter on the EBC trek!

The First big suspension bridge we encounter on the EBC trek!

That's a sweet pear!

That’s a sweet pear!

After a pleasant walk up to Benkar we returned to the lodge and found Prakash lying with high fever. We all were worried about him and our onward journey to EBC. It was the end of day two and we were staying in the same place where we slept last night!

You can read the day to day account of my Everest Base Camp Trek here- 

  1. An Enthralling Flight to Lukla, Nepal
  2. EBC Trek – Day 3 – Toktok – Monjo – Jorsalle – Namche Bazaar
  3. EBC Trek – Day 4 – Namche Bazaar – Acclimatization Day (Part-I)
  4. EBC Trek – Day 4 – Namche Bazaar, Khumjung – Acclimatization Day (Part-II)

11 thoughts on “EBC Trek – Day 1 & 2 – Lukla – Phakding – Toktok”

  1. silentsoul says:

    oh.. that s sad news… should hv been a little longer story

    1. Anupam Chakraborty says:

      Yes It was sad for my friend, he spent so much, had wishes for long but had to terminate in the beginning parts only.

  2. yogensarswat says:

    Great write up Anupam da , equally supported by grand & beautiful pictures !! I am first time to your blog but I know you since a long time through “Musafirnama “

    1. Anupam Chakraborty says:

      Thank you for dropping by Yogen Sarswat Ji and for your kind words!

  3. xhobdo says:

    Great to read your post. Awesome pics.
    Thanks for sharing.

    1. Anupam Chakraborty says:

      Thank you for your kind words, Rupam!

  4. Rajiv Verma says:

    Fantastic stuff dada, finally got the chance to go through and what a joy it has been.

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